The frozen river walk in Zanskar is shorter and less certain than it used to be. Here is what to know before you book a January slot. The Chadar is a walk on…
The Chadar is a walk on the frozen Zanskar river, between canyon walls, in temperatures that fall well below minus twenty at night. It is one of the great winter journeys in the world, and it has changed a lot in the last few years. A new road is being cut through the Zanskar gorge, linking Nimmu to Padum. As it advances, the walk on the ice has become much shorter than the classic route. Operators now describe a trek of around 20 kilometres on the river, against more than 60 before. Expect a fuller winter experience in Leh and a shorter time on the ice. The river has to freeze hard enough to walk on, and milder winters make that less reliable. The start of the 2026 season was delayed because the ice was not thick enough, and decisions are made by the Leh administration close to the dates. Anyone selling fixed January dates months ahead should explain what happens if the season opens late. Every trekker needs to go through a registered Ladakh operator. On arrival in Leh you spend at least three days acclimatising, then pass a compulsory medical check before permits are issued. There is a wildlife fee and an environment fee, and travel insurance that covers high altitude trekking is required. The walking is not technical, but the cold is relentless. You should be able to walk six hours a day comfortably. Gumboots with thick socks are standard on the ice; add a down jacket rated well below zero, a sleeping bag rated to minus twenty and layers you can change without getting wet. The window is mid January to late February, depending on the freeze. We advise keeping a few flexible days around your trek dates and flying into Leh rather than driving, since the roads from Manali and Srinagar are closed or difficult in winter. Winter Ladakh is extraordinary on its own. Monasteries hold their winter festivals, the Indus valley is silent and empty, and snow leopard tracking in Hemis and Ulley runs through the coldest months. We plan every Chadar trip with a winter Ladakh plan behind it, so the journey is never wasted.