Gulmarg, Sonamarg and Pahalgam in winter: the months that work, the places that get snow first, and how to plan around a mild season. Every November the same…
Every November the same question fills our inbox: will there be snow in Kashmir when we come? The honest answer is that snow in the valley is a season, not a date. Here is how we plan winter trips so that you see it, even in a year when the weather is shy. The high ground gets snow first. This year the upper reaches of Gulmarg, around Apharwat Peak, had their first dusting as early as mid September. Snow on the valley floor and in the towns usually arrives between late November and early January. The heart of winter is Chillai Kalan, the forty coldest days, which begin on 21 December. This is when snow is most reliable, the lakes start to freeze at the edges and Srinagar smells of wood smoke and kahwa. January and February are the safest months if snow is the point of your trip. The local weather office has said the 2026-27 winter may be relatively mild and dry, with one or two heavy spells still likely in peak season. In practice that means two things. Aim for late December to mid February rather than November, and keep Gulmarg in your plan, because altitude is your insurance. Gulmarg is the surest bet. The Gondola climbs in two stages, to Kongdoori and then to the Apharwat ridge at almost 4,000 metres, where there is usually snow when the meadow below is bare. It is also India’s best known ski slope, with gentle runs for first timers and long off-piste lines for experts. Sonamarg is newly reachable in winter. The tunnel at Z-Morh, opened in 2025, keeps the road from Srinagar open through the season, so the meadow of gold turns into a quiet white valley you can now actually visit. Pahalgam is the gentle option. Snow settles on the pines along the Lidder river, the crowds thin out and the walks to Betaab Valley and Aru are soft and silent. Srinagar itself is beautiful in snow: houseboats under a white blanket, mist on Dal Lake and the Mughal gardens bare and graphic. A night on the lake is still our favourite way to begin. Five or six nights is ideal: two in Srinagar, two or three in Gulmarg and one in Pahalgam or Sonamarg. We keep a spare day in every winter plan, because a fresh fall can close a road for a morning, and we choose heated stays with good backup power. Pack layers rather than one heavy coat, waterproof boots with grip, thermal gloves and a warm cap. Most hotels can arrange pherans, the long woollen Kashmiri cloak, which is warmer than anything you will bring. Christmas and New Year are the busiest weeks of the winter. Flights to Srinagar and good rooms in Gulmarg go first. If you want snow with fewer people, the second half of January is quietly the best time of all.